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Thomas H. Miller
If you have a home well, you alone are
responsible for maintaining the safety of your drinking water
supply. When your well system is suitably located, correctly
installed, properly maintained, and regularly tested, you will have
few problems with water quality. Water testing may be required by
lenders when you sell or refinance your home, but otherwise, it's up
to YOU to make sure it is safe to drink.
Well Anatomy
Maryland has established guidelines for the construction of
wells. All wells must be constructed by licensed well drillers in
accordance with State regulations. The well must pass inspection and
the water must be certified as potable (drinkable) by the County
Health Department before the well can be used. The following
components of a typical domestic well are illustrated on the
accompanying figure.
CASING: A metal or plastic pipe used to line a portion of
the bore hole. The minimum length (depth) of the casing is
determined by State regulations based on the geology of the area.
The casing must extend a minimum of 8 inches above the ground (24
inches in flood zones) to keep storm water runoff out of the well.
GROUT: Material used to provide a watertight seal between
the bore hole and the casing to prevent surface water and
contaminants from running down the side of the well. Grouting may be
portland or quick-setting cement, or bentonite clay. The minimum
depth or length of casing that must be grouted is also determined by
state regulations.
WELL COVER: A cap that screws or clamps onto the top of
the well casing to prevent contaminants from entering the well.
SCREEN: A pipe-like attachment at the bottom of the well.
Well screens are usually not required when drilling in bedrock, but
they may be necessary if loose sand or fragmented rock is
encountered. The screen is sealed on the bottom and has openings
along its length that allow water to enter the well, but keeps out
sand and sediment.
PUMP: Draws water from the bottom of the well and into the
distribution system. Many types and sizes of pumps are available.
The two most commonly used are submersible and jet pumps.
Submersible pumps are installed in the well and can be removed
relatively easily with the pull rope. Jet pumps have the motor
located outside the well.
PITLESS ADAPTER: Provides a frost proof and sanitary
hookup between the well and the household water distribution system.
The pitless adapter must be located below the frost line.
GET YOUR WATER TESTED
Most residential wells withdraw groundwater that is replenished
by rainfall entering the ground within a few miles of the well. For
this reason, the way you, and your neighbors, and even those outside
your community use the landscape can be an important factor in the
quality of your water supply. Be alert to possible sources of well
contamination such as septic systems, leaking underground fuel
tanks, landfills, industrial spills or discharges, animal wastes,
fertilizers, and pesticides.
Detecting groundwater contamination requires regular testing. You
should test your water supply once a year for bacteria and nitrates.
Consider seasonal testing if one sample shows elevated levels of
these contaminants. Prolonged periods of heavy rain can flush
contaminants into groundwater supplies.
At the least, test your water any time you notice unusual odors,
colors, or cloudiness, or if you note an interrupted supply, such as
pumping air or sediment. Contact your Health Department water
quality division for information on which tests might be
appropriate.
To get your water tested, you can call your Health Department to
arrange for a water test (if they do them), or request a list of
State-certified water testing laboratories serving your area.
Protect Your Water Supply
Keep surface water runoff from puddling around the well. Grade
your lot so that water drains away from your well casing. A well
should not be drilled on a "low" part of your property.
Prevent surface water from seeping down the sides of your well.
Make sure your well cap is not cracked and is tightly secured. If
water tests show contamination, it is recommended that a well
driller check the grout.
If your well is more than 30 years old, have it inspected by a
county Health Department sanitarian or a qualified well driller to
make sure that the casing is not cracked or corroded.
Install antibackflow devices on all faucets with hose
connections, or maintain an air space between hose or faucet
outlets and the water level in the container you are filling.
Otherwise, you risk sucking contaminated water from laundry tubs,
swimming pools, etc., back through the plumbing and into your
well.
Have your fuel oil tank tested for leaks, especially if it is
installed underground. Contact your fuel supplier for assistance.
Do not use gasoline, automotive products, solvents, pesticides,
or excessive amounts of fertilizers near your well.
Do not tie pets to the well casing. Animal waste deposited
close to the well could result in contamination. Also, a large dog
may break or crack the casing.
Be careful never to hit the casing with a lawn mower or
vehicle, or strike it with any force.
Maintain your septic system. Improperly functioning septic
systems are a major cause of well contamination.
Your well should be disinfected with a chlorine solution any
time work is done on the well or pump. Directions for shock
chlorinating your well are available from your county Health
Department.
If there are unused or abandoned wells on your property, make
sure they have been properly sealed to prevent direct
contamination of groundwater by surface contaminants.
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